Saturday, January 22, 2011

FELIZ AñO NUEVO

Hi All - Just wishing everyone a happy healthy happy new year. We're into beautiful long days but its been too cool really to call it summer here in Tasmania. We packed in a spectacular 10 day road trip over the holidays....got up into the mountains, out to the west coast, and back again to the east, trying to chase some waves. Mostly though its daily life in Hobart - work and school - then escaping on the weekends for a bushwalk, surf or both. Hope everyone's weathering the winter where you have it, and otherwise just weathering well. We're happy and thankful to have you all for friends and family, especially those times we feel as far away as we really are. But we're also happy we can share some of this amazing place with you. Don't forget - we've got another year and half down here - so come for a visit, Tasmania will blow you away.

clay made a menorah for talia

warratah - summertime christmas color

talia at the top of mt. wellington - first month of summer and it was snowing

chewbacca

some tasmanian candle leis-hania and davey in the back

our little native cypress christmas tree

Walk into the southwest coast

hot hot cold cold cold typical tassie

talia and chrisso scope out Lee's Hut
"The Paddocks" somewhere near the Overland Track


Had Lee's Hut to ourselves for New Years



trout-havin a ball

Shortcut to February Plains on the Overland Track

fields of richea
Talia fed the wildlife


nugget and trouty from under the Mersey River


Arthur River on the west coast

White-bellied sea eagle

Tarkine rain forest



400 year-old man ferns
fishing boat haul-out, west coast

the wilderness explorer

hooked back up with Chris on the east coast

the search


beer barrel djunes

weeee forever

magic mysto afternoon - Four Mile Creek

trout & nug



Wednesday, September 8, 2010

41 days in Arnhem Land...

Gamak! We're long overdue for an update...we've had quite an extraordinary Austral winter. Left cold cold Tasmania the end of June in a mad rush of last minute scrambling and headed north for the tropics. There was a rough plan sketched out - two and half days in Darwin to put together 6 weeks worth of supplies, pack it all in a little metal box trailer, and get dropped off in Arnhem Land. Hard to believe we actually pulled this off.

A visual- to get you oriented, we live on that little "heart"shaped island on the south-east corner of the map...we traveled up to the northern territory for this trip

A close up of Arnhem Land, as you can see, there is not much to see....just bush

Snaky rivers meandering thru the landscape


Our friend Brett hauled us and our gear for the 10 hour drive due east - out of Darwin, across endless savanna, through the Kakadu Lowlands, then across the East Alligator River into Aboriginal lands surrounding the Arnhem Plateau. That evening we pulled into Kolorbidahdah outstation, the little "village" of about 10 houses where our friends Joshua and Rahab live and spent the first night by the river. Next morning, we continued the rough jeep track upstream along the Cadell River to Dukaladjarranj - home sweet home for the next 6 weeks.

Brett is driving us from Darwin to Dukalajarin- the water came over our hood or "bonnet" a few times, thank you snorkels

Dukaladjarranj is an Aboriginal campsite in the stunning landscape at the eastern edge of the Arnhem Land Plateau. All around, the tropical savanna is littered with monolithic orange-purple sandstone blocks stacked and toppled and still etched with the ripples of a sea which covered the land over a billion years ago. The intricate and mesmerizing network of outcrops, little canyons and ravines is aptly named the Stone Country, or "Gumbadbad" in the language of this land.

It is through Joshua and Rahab and their uncle Wayne that we're able to visit Dukaladjarranj at all. It was one of Joshua's grandfather Balang's favorite places - his paintings adorn the large stone which sat over our camp, his remains lie hidden in a burial log tucked into the rock's crevices, and his spirit makes this a safe place for Joshua and Rahab's whitefella friends.

Back to the same spot we visited last year, this 1.6 billion year old sandstone holds the bones of Joshua's grandfather, Balang

Our little family, Balang, Bulandjan, Wamud & Wamudjan off to get sugar and powdered milk with a bucket of tea

Brett helped us set up camp, picked up my supervisor who flew into the nearest settlement on the coast, and they spent the first few days getting us settled in. Joshua and Rahab soon joined us, pitching their own camp just downstream with their kids Leanna and Leroy. Around Day 5, Brett and my supervisor bid us adieu, and took the truck back to Darwin - "see you in 5 weeks," Brett would return for us in early August. And there we stayed, under Balang's rock at Dukaladjarranj, with our little trailer and mosquito dome, 6 crates of food and our Aboriginal family to keep company.

home sweet home

Office

Amid steady bouts of fieldwork (which entailed counting trees and lighting savanna fires - more on research here) we settled into life...Get up, get wood, light the fire, make tea, fill the water jugs at the river, put out the solar panels, pack our lunch, hike out to the study site, work, hike back, light a fire, cook dinner, clean up, bathe in the river, bed, then do it all over again...

Clay got skinny, Talia got sick of canned food, and whenever we could we hung out with Joshua, Rahab, Leanna and Leroy and soaked up as much of their language, culture, and lifestyle as we could. It was a hard place to leave.

pets

burning the land

a quiet place to read, wash, drink, play, fish...

I think you'd spend half your life collecting firewood if you really wanted to "live off the land"
Go for it!

Leroy aka Wamud aka "the thug"

Leanna aka Wamudjan aka "the Nubian princess"

Carnivorous plants- they love flies


"snake lady" and "x-ray roo"- our neighbors

"mi mi spirits" play tricks on you

our spot on the river

bushfires make for beautiful sunsets


there be big, feral water buffalo - and good reason we don't walk around at night

spiky-tailed (and eyebrow-ed) gecko

assassin bug

"bush feet"

big sky land

Our fishing spot... don't tell

Rahab with a haul - as usual

File snake, "Beka" - and tomorrow's breakfast


wild yams, "garbarra"

Making Didjeridu or "Mago"


making paint from stones

the end products
good price

harvesting "delek" - white clay used for ceremony and painting

Anna, Joshua's mom making Pandanus baskets

she uses plant to dye the fibres

crazy rare Leichardt's grasshopper

Black-naped Stork (Jabiru) visiting our camp

Forest kingfisher

the fam

Emu chick- cute!

long neck turtle- rich meat

yes we ate him

feral female with file snake

da thug

sleepy-time

they use guns, but sometimes Joshua still likes to hunt old-school

whitefella camp

water lily blossom

My friend Hazen came for a week and found a new best friend
(check out Hazen's antics)

freshwater crocs are harmless when you're not trying to catch 'em

talia's haul - makin' Rahab proud


magic stone country

talia at the "billi-bong"

the little guy's not all thug

another big sky sunset

good nite